A Night in Beijing

Departures

 

There are a lot of routes to Bangkok and there aren’t many nonstop flights. It’s just a little too far. So you can get there via Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Frankfurt, Beijing, and other cities. I chose Beijing because Air China (the national airline of the Peoples Republic—as opposed to China Air, which is based in Taiwan) offered the cheapest round trip to Thailand—and among the shortest. The two legs totaled just over 19 hours, with a 90-minute layover at Beijing. The short layover turned out to be a poor choice, for reasons that I will explain shortly.

When I booked the flight in December, I neglected to check the phases of the moon. It didn’t occur to me departing on February 3 would put me in the middle of the Chinese New Year celebration. No wonder the plane is full! In the crowded 119-seat aft cabin of our Boeing 777, where I managed to snag aisle seat 53J, I’m one of three or four non-Chinese.

The New Year is celebrated for about two weeks not only in China but in most of East and Southeast Asia. It’s a time for reuniting families—for returning to the ancestral village. Many of my fellow passengers are doing just that—going back to their “villages,” even if that village is now a city of 12 million.

Seven years ago, in February 2006, we flew into Ho Chi Minh City at the height of Vietnam’s New Year celebration. On arrival at the airport there—on my first trip to Asia—I was struck by the mountains of baggage that Vietnamese expats, mostly from America, were lugging into Vietnam. Not just giant suitcases, although there were plenty of those, but huge cardboard cartons and plastic tubs full of clothing, detergent, toothpaste, even small appliances. These folks, many of whom had fled their country at the end of what the Vietnamese call “the American War,” were bringing evidence of their more prosperous new village back to their old village.

The eyes of relatives and friends standing behind a barrier with small welcome signs and armloads of flowers, expectantly scanned the arriving passengers. Trom the tears that flowed, I guessed that, for some, this may have been their first time back—some 30 years since the end of the war.

At JFK today, the departure gate is alive with families. Everyone queues up well before the boarding announcement, even though each person already has a seat assignment. (The Chinese seem queue naturally when it seems like something might be in short supply.) The mood is ebullient as we board the plane. Celebratory music drums from the PA system and excited chatter reaches a crescendo as the generations settle into their seats.

Because of the steady snow in the Northeast, departing planes are being held for de-icing. The boarding is delayed more than an hour, and once in our seats, we wait for two more hours before getting into position for de-icing. After the glycol bath, we take off forthwith—three hours late. I know before leaving New York that I will miss my 90-minute connection to Bangkok.

A JAL plane is de-iced at JFK International.

A JAL plane is de-iced at JFK International.

So here I am in Beijing, at a decent hotel near the airport. After promising a free room for the night, the airline makes me pay150 yuan (about $25) for a single room because I refused to double up with the next Flight 984 refugee, another American on his way to Bangkok. Don’t get me wrong; he seemed like a nice guy, but was a total stranger. My protest to an Air China agent at the airport next day would be fruitless. In China, there may be a one-child policy, but two strangers must share a room when marooned en route.

The van to the hotel is reminiscent of the customs line at Ho Chi Minh City eight years ago. At the Beijing airport, huge bundles and gargantuan suitcases appeared on the baggage belt while officious mamas and grandmas loudly supervised their loading onto a flotilla of luggage carts. My photo tells the tale. Our driver is somewhere behind these bundles of—well, it’s hard to tell except some of them looked extremely heavy. My little suitcase is under there somewhere!

Our hotel shuttle driver is behind this pile of baggage.

Our hotel shuttle driver is behind this pile of baggage.

In the unheated hotel lobby, it’s Wednesday, Feb, 5, and I’m not particularly sleepy. My brain thinks it’s about noon on Tuesday in New York. Several of us English speakers, including a Chinese American from Baltimore who is making his familial pilgrimage, rouse a waiter in the darkened restaurant, order beer and noodles, and swap travel stories until after 2:00. The Chinese guy pays for the food. Happy New Year!

A flat bed and five hours’ sleep, a shower, and a shave feel great, and I’m ready to head back to the airport for a restart. I don’t mind the unexpected on a trip like this. There are always new people to meet (including friendly, helpful Chinese with little English but a strong desire to connect) and new places to see—like the Golden Phoenix Hotel near the Beijing International Airport—if you stop, look, and listen.

 

 

Stop, Look, and Listen

The Other Side of the Tracks

Snow is floating earthward in fat, wet flakes as Train 172 rumbles under the Barry Bridge in Chester, Pa. Harrah’s Casino gleams on one side of the tracks; a state prison glowers on the other. Ironically, gambling and incarceration are the two biggest industries in this downtrodden rust-belt city—by many measures, Pennsylvania’s poorest.

I’m on my way to JFK to catch a plane to Asia, but right now I’m wondering about train tracks—how they both bring people together and divide them. “The other side of the tracks,” a common idiom, is about the divide.

The snow covers up a lot of the ugliness along the Amtrak line—the abandoned businesses, warehouses full of frigid cold air, crumbling walls, rusting cars. But a blanket of white cannot hide the prison or the casino. Rows of houses huddle along the rails, their dirty windows glimpsing us as we hurry by in our cozy Quiet Car. A rich man rarely builds his home along the Northeast Corridor main line, and in some ways these tracks that speed us to our destinations in comfort—with free WiFi and a glass of merlot—are like prison walls, barriers that are dangerous and even impossible to cross.

As I head to Thailand for a few days of sightseeing, then on to Cambodia to build houses for the Tabitha Foundation, I must pay attention to the tracks. “Stop, look, and listen,” the crossing signs once said. Be still, be mindful, with eyes wide open. Listen to the other voices. Find the words. Write.

Here I go again.

Stoplook

A Survey in Progress

Michael Cothren, the scholar who scrapped the survey course at Swarthmore, has become co-author of a best-selling survey textbook. Photograph by Eleftherios Kostans

Michael Cothren, the scholar who scrapped the survey course at Swarthmore has become co-author of a best-selling survey textbook.
Photograph by Eleftherios Kostans

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“A Survey in Progress”

By Jeffrey Lott

Swarthmore College Bulletin
April 2010
 

It used to be that, like a hot shower or a glass of orange juice, an art history survey course was best taken first thing in the morning. Anyone who ever took one knows this. As one of the few academic disciplines taught in the dark, with slide after slide flashing on the screen while whirring projectors pumped hot air into an already stuffy room, art history after lunch was often soporific. But in the morning, there was a cup of joe in your hand and a fighting chance to stay alert as you engraved image after image into your memory, scratching notes on paper you could barely see, connecting great works period-by-period, artist-by-artist into a sort of Aristotelian cosmology of painting, sculpture, and architecture that reached back through the Romans, Greeks, Sumerians, and Egyptians, all the way to the Paleolithic. (Who can forget the “Venus” of Willendorf?) And that was just the first semester.

Until the late 1980s, if you took an art history survey course at Swarthmore or most other colleges, this was the drill. Your textbook was probably Helen Gardner’s Art Through the Ages: A Concise History (first published in 1926) or H.W. Janson’s History of Art (1961)—books still used today in updated editions. Both texts presented an inexorable progression of Near Eastern and European art that rose from the primitive to the near-perfect—the latter represented by the art and architecture of Ancient Greece, the Italian Renaissance, and 19th-century French art. Gardner’s book now contains coverage of Far Eastern, Indian, and African art, but the “truth” of art history, largely handed down from 19th-century German scholars, was, and remains, the Western canon. And the approach—from Giorgio Vasari’s 16th-century Lives of the Artists to Erwin Panofsky’s Studies in Iconology (1939)—was variously biographical, critical, comparative, stylistic, and iconographic.

But then, in the 1980s, came what is known as “the crisis in art history,” a professional upheaval for traditionally trained art historians that ushered in new ways of studying and thinking about art. “I call it the theory wars,” says Scheuer Family Professor of Humanities Michael Cothren…. [more]

 

Not Self

Don Swearer and Jeff Lott at Wat Umong, near Chiang Mai, Thailand, February 2011

Don Swearer and Jeff Lott at Wat Umong, near Chiang Mai, Thailand, February 2011. Photograph by Joseph Lott.

 Donald Swearer on Buddhism, religion, and compassion.

Interview conducted and edited by Jeffrey Lott.

Before he retired from the Swarthmore faculty, Don Swearer would stop by my Parrish Hall office to tell me about his travels. His research in Thai Buddhism took him—and his wife and longtime editor Nancy Swearer—to Thailand as frequently as they could manage, particularly to the northern city of Chiang Mai. So when I visited Southeast Asia with my son earlier this year, we flew to Chiang Mai instead of Bangkok because Don and Nancy were there. Before we left, I crammed a bit, reading two of his books; touring Buddhist temples with Don Swearer is like a little seminar in Theravada Buddhism, and you have to be prepared.

Swearer, 76, the Charles and Harriet Cox McDowell Professor Emeritus of Religion, retired a second time last June as director of the Center for the Study of World Religions at the Harvard Divinity School. Always a popular teacher at Swarthmore, Swearer is widely known for his scholarship—especially his books and translations that illuminate Buddhism’s impact in Southeast Asia.

He first went to Thailand in 1957, after a rocky first year at the Yale Divinity School, where he had gone to study for the Presbyterian ministry after graduating from Princeton. His first encounter with Buddhism came that summer, while teaching English at Bangkok Christian College. He returned to Yale and completed a B.D. and a master’s in sacred theology but decided on a career in teaching rather than parish ministry. Swearer was already teaching at Oberlin College when he completed a Ph.D. at Princeton in 1967. Today, after 34 years at Swarthmore (1970–2004) and many sabbaticals and summer visits, he is fluent in Thai language, religion, and culture.

I interviewed Don amid the trees and birds of Wat Umong, a “forest” monastery at the edge of Chiang Mai associated with Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, the influential 20th-century monk whose modern interpretations of Buddhism have been a steady Swearer interest. In the 1930s, Buddhadasa (d. 1993) established Suan Mokkh, a forest monastery in southern Thailand, which became a center for socially engaged Buddhism—a “pristine” form of Buddhism that he said was meant to “drag humanity out from under the power of materialism.” When I spoke again with Swearer after his return to the United States this spring, he was preparing to move to Claremont, Calif., where he anticipates more opportunities for him and Nancy to enjoy their family and community. Yet the pull of scholarship and the classroom hasn’t abated. He’s considering graduate teaching opportunities and, with characteristic zeal, wants to finish an ongoing study of Christian identity in Buddhist Thailand and a translation of a chronicle of a major northern Thai monastic lineage.

I began by asking him a favorite question. He replied, of course, by reframing my question and giving a surprisingly frank answer.

Tell me about a long-held theory or belief that you no longer hold.

I might ask, “Which fundamental ideas that you once held has your study of Buddhism radically  transformed?” To go right to the heart of it, our conventional understanding of the Christian God as a Ground of Being  who created the world—something fundamental to Biblical faith—has been fundamentally challenged and altered. Buddhism offers a very different way of understanding the nature of the world, of notions regarding ultimate reality and transcendence which, in my case, served to transform my understanding of Christian theology.

What elements of Buddhism have you adopted in your personal or spiritual life?

I studied meditation with teachers in Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Japan, then brought two of them to Oberlin to work with my students during a January term practicum. That led to a book,Secrets of a Lotus: Studies in Buddhist Meditation. My work on Buddhadasa has led to an empathetic worldview—a word I use instead of philosophy—that embraces the Buddhist critique of selfishness and self-centeredness, emphasizing compassion and generosity. These virtues are highlighted in Buddhism, but they are universal. This teaching—often translated as “not self”—is difficult for westerners to grasp because it’s seen as being negative and world denying. A better way of thinking of it is “to uncenter the self.” That’s very much linked with the interconnectedness of all things—a fundamental principle of Buddhist thought.

You’ve been working on a project called Buddhist Economics and Thailand’s Sufficiency Economy? What does “sufficiency” mean in this context?

It’s usually parsed in Thai as “having enough to live and to eat.” Sufficiency has been promoted throughout the long history of Thailand’s current king [who has reigned since 1946]. “Sufficiency” acknowledges the importance of strong, diverse local economies, especially in agriculture as a counter to mono-agricultural crops that are subject to the vagaries of the global market.

How does Buddhism relate to sufficiency?

Sufficiency is the inverse of excess—especially excess driven by accumulation or greed—and that’s linked to Buddhist concepts of non-attachment and interdependence. The monastic orders themselves provide an example by living simply in community—and King Rama IV was a monk for 27 years before he became king. This is not to say that sufficiency economics has not been critiqued as a way for urban elites to keep the rural poor in their place. But the examples in my research—a community, a farmer, a business, a school—have embraced the philosophy of sufficiency, and I think Buddhism has something to do with that.

What are some common elements of all religious traditions?

Religions envisage human existence in a broad framework. Despite how they vary across the horizontal dimension in ways that they frame this or define that, there’s a vertical dimension that engages notions that can’t be empirically verified. That’s where god language comes in, for example, but it’s more universal in engaging notions like infinity or transcendence. Those ideas are particularly distinctive to the religious worldview.

Does such a worldview require belief in something that defies empirical understanding?

Buddhism doesn’t have a god concept the way Christianity does. Many Buddhists will tell you that unlike Christianity, which depends on faith, theirs is a rational religion.

What’s the future of Buddhism?

Max Weber, who looked at world religions through the lens of Protestant materialism, saw Buddhism as other-worldly mysticism—all about being a monk in a monastery. But modern, socially engaged Buddhism as envisioned by Buddhadasa, Thich Nhat Hanh, and the Dalai Lama addresses worldly problems. These Buddhists care about the environment; they work to end human trafficking; they seek economic justice. This is not uncommon among all religious traditions today, but more people of all faiths are taking on global problems from their religions’ perspectives. If Buddhism—or Christianity for that matter—is to remain relevant in the modern world, it has to engage the world with values of selflessness and compassion.

“Not self,” right?

Not self. Exactly.

 

This interview appeared in the Swarthmore College Bulletin,  April 2011. © Swarthmore College. 

 

 

Ray Irani

MainGate_summer12

A Man of Wisdom and Vision
Main Gate Magazine
American University of Bierut
Ada Porter, Editor

 

It was 3:00 am when young Riyad “Ray” Irani arrived at the Los Angeles airport from his home in Lebanon. He was headed to graduate school at the University of Southern California (USC), but first he had to find a place to sleep.

The year was 1953, well before propeller aircraft were supplanted by commercial jets. For the 18-year-old Irani, who had never traveled out of the Middle East, it was a memorable adventure. He flew from Beirut to Cairo; from Cairo to Rome; then to Shannon, Ireland, where a transatlantic flight took him as far as Bangor, Maine. He flew from Maine to New York City, landing at the old Idlewild Field (now JFK).

There, he had to change airports to board his westbound flight. “It was kind of confusing,” Irani recalls today, nearly 60 years later, “but I carried my three suitcases— one of them filled with books—over to LaGuardia Airport for the flights to Chicago and on to Los Angeles. When I got to LA in the middle of the night, I found a taxi and told the driver, ‘I want to go to a reasonably priced hotel not far from USC.’” After catching a few hours of sleep, Irani found a pay phone to call the Chemistry Department at the university. “I had never dialed a telephone,” he says, “so I had to ask a passerby to dial the number. Several people passed this up, but someone finally helped me.”

These days, Ray Irani doesn’t have to rely so much on the kindness of strangers. [Read more:PDF]

Why I Write

By nature, I’m interested in a lot of things: art, astronomy, baseball,  cosmology, education, food, history, politics, religion and theology (not the same), science, service, theater, travel, wine, and words.

I write to learn. And, to a lesser extent, to teach. I  learn new things—about myself, about other people, and about the world.  Although I am interested in some topics more than others (see above), I’ve never been afraid of a new subject. Suggest something and I’ll probably say yes.

I also know from my first career (12 years as a teacher) that to teach something effectively—or to tell a story about it—you have to know it well . Both my liberal education and my curious temperament make this easy and enjoyable. I think that my writing reflects this..

I don’t think I’m a born writer. It’s something I’ve been taught, and that I have taught myself. Words are currency to me; I buy my ideas with them—and I sell them too.